Thursday, December 23, 2010

The Best End of Year Incentives

The Best End of Year Incentives
December 23, 2010

 
The end of year is a great time to buy a new car - especially a leftover model (as long as you don't plan on selling it within 5 years).
Here's a sampling of what each car maker has to offer as part of their year-end sales event.

Acura - "Season of Reason" offers 0.9% APR for 24-36 months or 1.9% APR for 37-60 months, as well as $0 down payment, $0 security deposit, $0 first month's payment, and $0 due at lease signing on select models.

Best end of year incentives
BMW - Joy Sales Event: Holiday Credit of $1,500 on the 1 Series, 3 Series, 5 Series (including the Gran Turismo), and Z4. $2,500 Holiday Credit on the X5, X6, and 7 Series (excluding the 760Li and Alpina). Financing rates as low as 0.9% or no down payment.

Dodge- Cash rebates from $750 to $1500 and low-APR incentives on many models based on region.

Ford - Year End Celebration sales event: $199/36-month lease on the 2011 Fiesta SE four-door, and a $305/36-month lease on the 2011 Mustang V-6 coupe, or 0% APR financing plus $1500 cash back on many models, including the 2011 Focus, Fusion, Taurus, and Escape, and even the 2010 F-150 Truck.

GM - Has special incentives on its Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, and GMC brands. Chevrolet offers no monthly payments till spring, plus 0% APR, and $1,500 on certain 2011 Chevy models. Buick is offering a similar deal on the 2011 Enclave and LaCrosse, as well as a special lease offer on the 2011 Regal CXL. GMC is offering no monthly payments till spring, plus 0% APR, and $1,500 on any new GMC, plus "Sign and Drive" lease offers on the 2011 Acadia SL and 2011 GMC Terrain.

Honda - Happy Honda Days offers financing as low as 0.9% for 60 months or 1.9% APR for up to 36 months and no money down on leases on selected models.

Hyundai - Hyundai Holiday savings: $1000 bonus cash plus 3.9% APR up to 60 months or 4.9% for 72 months on its 2010 Accent three- or four-door model.

Infiniti - Winter Event features special lease offers and APRs from 0.0% to 2.9% across most of its lineup.

Kia - Offering from $500 to $2000 cash back on selected 2010 Forte, Optima, and Rio models, or 2011 Soul models along with 0% financing.

Lexus - December to Remember: APRs as low as 1.9% for up to 60 months on select models depending on region.

Lincoln/Mercury - Wishlist Lease Event promises a 27-month Red Carpet Lease with $0 down payment, $0 first month's payment, and $0 cash due at signing on select 2011 Lincoln MKZ or MKS models, as well as four-year complimentary maintenance.

Mercedes-Benz - Offering special lease deals and 1.9% APR sales incentives from 24 to 36 months on many models in its collection. Participating Mini dealers are offering 0.9% APR financing for 60 months or on all 2011 models, or $199 per month on a 36-month lease of a 2011 Mini Cooper Hardtop.

Nissan - Year-End Sales Event has deals on the full lineup of sedans, crossovers, trucks and SUVs. $750 cash back on the Altima sedan; special financing rates of 0% for 36 months on the Frontier, Murano, and Pathfinder; 1.9% for 36 months on the Armada and Juke.

Suzuki - Promoting special leasing deals across its entire lineup of 2010 and 2011 models and special financing of 2.9% financing for 60 months, depending on your region.

Toyota - Toyotathon offers 0% APR for 36 months or 0.9% from 48 to 60 months.

Volvo - Offering Costco members an exclusive Winter Savings Promotion of $500 off Volvo Employee Pricing, plus additional rebates and incentives on the purchase of a 2011 Volvo XC60 or XC90.


Thank you,
Thomas Ieracitano

 

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Best and Worst Cars to Negotiate a Good Deal

Best and Worst Cars to Negotiate a Good Deal
December 23, 2010

 
Last month was a strong sales month overall, especially for SUVs - 16 of the top 20 fastest sellers were SUVs or crossovers, and the Honda Odyssey brings the total non-car group up to 17.  The only three cars on the list were all luxury models.
The fastest-selling non-luxury car was the Chevy Cruze, sitting on lots for only 16 days before being sold.
The faster a car sells, the less negotiating room you have on the price. Dealers can't keep the cars on the lot, so why would they sell it at a low price?
However brisk some sales of new models were, the lingering 2010s have slowed the average time it takes to sell a new car to 83 days.
That's up from 69 days in October and is the slowest of the year.
Fastest Sellers (Hard to Negotiate Price)

+ 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe
+ 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport
+ 2011 BMW 535i xDrive
+ 2011 Nissan Juke
+ 2011 VW Touareg
+ 2011 Subaru Forester
+ 2011 Mercedes-Benz S550
+ 2011 Lincoln MKX
+ 2011 Honda Odyssey

 Slowest Sellers (Easy to Negotiate Price)

+ 2010 BMW ActiveHybrid X6
+ 2010 Jaguar XK8 coupe
+ 2010 BMW 650i convertible
+ 2010 Lexus HS 250h
+ 2010 BMW 650i coupe
+ 2010 VW New Beetle convertible
+ 2010 Mazda MX-5 Power Retractable Hardtop



Thank you,
Thomas Ieracitano
 

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Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Nothing matters if a lead is not properly answered

Nothing matters if a lead is not properly answered.

No SEO or SEM, no mobile apps, no 360 degree views of the car on your website, no amount of third party lead-buying matters if you can't get back to a customer right away with a quote. Too often, dealers underestimate this vital "blocking and tackling" step, pursuing all kinds of sexy strategies to gin up lead volume. They fail to recognize that if a lead isn't properly answered, lead volume is meaningless.

The arrival of an incoming lead represents "the moment of truth." The point of lead arrival signifies the moment when a customer has decided to put three to four dealers on trial. Who has a fair price? Who has what I want in stock? Who will give me the best service? Who can I trust? How the dealer responds in the minutes or hours after the lead arrives shapes the customer's view of that dealership.

The simple fact is, according to a study by the Cobalt Group, that 25% of all leads don't get answered at all. And the average response time on leads that do receive a response is over five hours. For the consumer sitting at her computer waiting for a quote, these facts stagger. Why, she thinks, should it be so difficult to find a dealer who wants my $25,000?

Creating an optimal end-to-end customer experience that enhances a dealer's selling potential involves:
• A customer sending in a lead

• An immediate, personalized e-mail response back to the customer, showing price quotes on multiple new and pre-owned alternatives surrounding her request.

• A phone connection within one hour, confirming the customer's receipt of the quote and probing for areas of interest, confusion or concern-followed by the invitation to visit the dealership for a test drive.

• Follow-up e-mails and phone messages over the ensuing five days if the customer doesn't immediately come in.

• Confirmation of a test drive date and time.

• Once the customer comes into the dealership, a hearty welcome, discussion of product requirements, "lot walk", test drive and sale if possible.

• And if not, an ongoing e-mail follow-up campaign that encourages the customer to respond when she is back in the market and ready to buy.

The problem, of course, is that life in a dealership is complicated. Many conflicting demands draw upon the time and attentions of every Internet salesperson, ISM, ISD and GSM. Leads come in at the worst possible time-when everyone is engaged with other customers, for instance-and languish in ILM / CRM in-boxes. Too often, a salesperson with time to answer just one lead but with four in the queue will just answer the freshest lead; the others go stale and eventually unanswered.

To address the monumental challenge of an effective and rapid price quote response, a new category of technology solutions has emerged: Digital Response Management (DRM). DRM vendors deliver solutions that ensure the dealer can execute very rapid price quote responses on incoming leads.

A comprehensive CRM solution delivers at least the following:
• A very rapid price quote response to a customer inquiry
• Personalization of the message
• Tools to support dealer pricing
• A brand-strengthening consumer message
• New and used vehicles presented
• High message deliverability (avoids spam filters, etc.)

CRM providers attack a problem that has bedeviled dealers for 15 years: the ability to send a price quote response back to a customer right away. Increasingly, progressive dealers will ask their partners in dealer 20 groups, "What is your DRM system?" It won't be long before all effective dealers will have at least one.

Tom Mohr is the president and CEO of ResponseLogix, the leading provider of automotive digital response management software for Internet leads.

Thank you,
Thomas Ieracitano
Can't Make it Here, We'll Take it There!


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Thursday, November 11, 2010

10 Steps to Selling Your Car

10 Steps to Selling Your Car

Here are 10 simple steps that may help you sell your car.
I have tried to cover all the bases, from pricing, advertising and negotiating.
And keep this a short and easy-to-follow process.


Step 1: Know the Marketplace
Is your car going to be easy to sell? Is it a hot commodity, are there many similar vehicles?
Or will you have to drop your price? Maybe look at other ways to sell it?

Here are a few general 'rule of thumb' to answer the above questions:

   * Family sedans, while unexciting to many, are in constant demand by people needing basic, inexpensive transportation.

   * The sale of convertibles and sports cars is seasonal. Sunny weather brings out the buyers. Fall and winter months will be slow.

   * Trucks and vans, used for work, are steady sellers and command competitive prices. Don't underestimate their value.

   * Collector cars will take longer to sell and are often difficult to price. However, these cars can have unexpected value if you find the right buyer.

Your first step is to check on-line classified ads to see how much others are asking for your type of car.
Most websites have a Vehicle Locator and allow you to search with specific criteria. For example, select the year and trim level of your car and see how many similar cars are currently on the market.
Take note of their condition, mileage, geographic location and selling price so you can list your car at a price that will sell it quickly.

Step 2: Price Your Car Competitively
Once you have surveyed the on-line classified ads, use Edmunds.com True Market Value (TMV®), Kelley Blue Book and Autotrader.com pricing to determine the fair value of your car. Edmunds.com TMV prices are adjusted for mileage, color, region, options and condition.
There are always some exceptions to the rules of pricing, so you should follow your intuition. And be sure to leave a little wiggle room in your asking price.
Ask for slightly more money than you are actually willing to accept. If you want to get $12,000 for the car, you should list the car at $13,500. That way, if you get $13,500 — great! But if you have to go lower, it won't be a terrible loss.
You may have noticed how creative used car dealers get in pricing cars. Their prices usually end in "995," as in $12,995. Are we not supposed to notice that the car basically costs $13,000? There is a lot of psychology in setting prices.
A product that doesn't sell well at $20 might jump off the shelf at $19.95.
On the other hand, as a private party seller, you don't want to look like a car dealer. Therefore, you might want to take a simple approach and set your price at a round figure such as $12,750 or $12,500.

Step 3: Give Your Car "Curb Appeal"
When people come to look at your car, they will probably make up their minds to buy it or not within the first few seconds. This is based on their first look at the car. So you want this first look to be positive. You want your car to have "curb appeal."

Before you advertise your car for sale, make sure it looks as clean and attractive as realistically possible. This goes beyond just taking it to the car wash. Here is a to-do list that could help turn your heap into a cream puff:

   * Make sure it is washed, waxed and detailed.

   * Make sure your car is both mechanically sound and free from dents, dings and scrapes.

   * Consider making low-cost repairs yourself rather than selling it "as is."

   * Shovel out all the junk from the inside of the car. When prospective buyers go for a test-drive, you don't want them to feel like they've walked into your messy bedroom. Let them visualize the car as theirs.

   * Wipe the brake dust off the wheel covers and clean the tires with a tire gloss product.

   * Thoroughly clean the windows (inside and out) and all the mirrored surfaces.

   * Wipe down the dashboard and empty the ashtrays.

   * Have all your maintenance records ready to show prospective buyers.

   * If the car needs servicing or even a routine oil change, take care of that before putting it up for sale.

   * Have your mechanic check out your car and issue a report about its condition. You can use this to motivate a buyer who is on the fence.

   * Order a Carfax report and show it to the buyer to prove the car's title is clean and the odometer reading is accurate.


Step 4: Where to Advertise Your Car
Now that your car is looking great and running well, it's time to advertise it for sale. Traditionally, people advertise in newspaper classified ads. These ads can be expensive, but they get results. On-line classified ads, such as the Edmunds.com Used Vehicle Locator, are becoming increasingly popular. On-line ads are particularly effective with hard-to-find or collector cars. In most cases, on-line classifieds reach a geographically wider area of buyers.

Here are the main markets for advertising used cars:

   * On-line classified ads such as those on Edmunds.com

   * Daily newspaper classified ads

   * Weekly "shoppers" and giveaway newspapers

   * Bulletin boards at your office, a local supermarket or a college campus

   * Word of mouth — tell your friends and family you have a car for sale

   * Put a "For Sale" sign in the car window

Creativity is required when it comes to advertising. Think of unusual places to put ads (skywriting is probably too expensive), and you will get results.

One last word of advice about advertising: if you run an expensive classified ad, be sure you are available to take phone calls from possible buyers. Many people won't leave a message for a return call. So answer the phone — and be polite. Creating a good first impression is the first step to getting buyers to come and see the car in person.


Step 5: Create Ads That Sell
When creating "For Sale" signs or putting a classified ad in the paper, you have an opportunity to show how eager you are to sell the car. This can be done by inserting the following abbreviations and phrases:

   Must Sell!: This often means the seller is leaving town and needs to dump the car at a fire sale price.

   OBO: This stands for "or best offer" and it indicates that you are willing to entertain offers below the stated price. This usually means you are eager to sell the car.

   Asking price: This also communicates the feeling that you will negotiate, but it is one notch below OBO on the eagerness scale.

   Firm: This word is used to rebuff attempts to negotiate. It indicates that you aren't in a hurry to sell the car — you are most interested in getting your price.

Think about what you are telling people when you phrase your ad. Little words convey a lot. Besides the price, your ad should also include the year, make, model and trim level of the car you are selling along with the mileage, color, condition and popular options.


Step 6: Showing Your Car
Keep in mind that when you sell your car, people will also be evaluating you. They will be thinking something like, "Here's the person who's owned this car for the past few years. Do I trust him/her?" Make the buyers feel comfortable. They will probably be uneasy about making a big decision and spending money. Put them at ease and answer their questions openly.

Potential buyers will want to test-drive the car. If in doubt, check to make sure they have a driver license. Ride along with them so you can answer any questions about the car's history and performance. Also, they may not know the area, so you might have to guide them.

There are many unexpected bumps in the road that can arise while selling a used car. These will be handled easily if you are dealing with a reasonable person. So, as you are contacted by prospective buyers, use your intuition to evaluate them. If they seem difficult, pushy or even shady, wait for another buyer. With the right person, selling a used car should be simple.

Some sellers feel uncomfortable about having buyers come to their house to see the car. However, you can generally screen buyers on the phone. If they sound suspicious, don't do business with them. If you don't want people knowing where you live, arrange to show the car at a park or shopping center near your home. However, keep in mind that people will eventually see your address when you sign the title over to them.

Some buyers will want to take the car to a mechanic to have it inspected. If you have an inspection report from your mechanic, this might put their doubts to rest. However, if they still want to take the car to their mechanic, this is a reasonable request. By now, you should have a feeling for the person's trustworthiness. If you feel uncomfortable or have reason to think they will steal the car, decline the offer or go along with them.

Be ready for trick questions such as, "So, what's really wrong with the car?" If you get this, refer them to the mechanic's report or invite them to look over the car more carefully.


Step 7: Negotiate For Your Best Price
If a person comes to look at the car and it passes their approval after a test-drive, you can expect them to make an offer. Most people are uncomfortable negotiating, so their opening offer might take several forms.

   "I like the car, but…." This is the softest way to negotiate on the price. They may not even state that the price seems too high. If they say, "I like the car, but…" and then lapse into uncomfortable silence, you might consider an appropriate response. If you really want to move the car, you could say, "How much would you be willing to pay?"

   "What's your best price?" This is a more direct way to probe the seller to find out how much he or she will come down. If you get this from a prospective buyer, don't seem too eager to reduce your price.

   "Would you accept…?" Now we're getting somewhere. This buyer has thought it over and is making an offer. But the offer is being presented in a polite manner designed to allow for a counter offer.

   "Take it or leave it." This buyer is making an offer that supposedly leaves no room for a counter offer. In reality, this buyer might be bluffing. Still, they are sending a message that they are close to their final price. The only way to know for sure whether it really is a "take it or leave it" offer is to leave it — and let them leave. They may return tomorrow ready to pay your price.

The above are just a few of the openers you might encounter. Think of your responses ahead of time so you won't be caught unprepared. In general, it's a good idea to hold to your price when your car first goes up for sale. If you don't get any buyers right away, you'll know you have to be flexible about the price.

Step 8: Handling Complications
In some cases, you might reach an agreement with a buyer that is contingent on performing repair work on the car. This can lead to misunderstandings down the line, so avoid this if you can. The best thing to do is have your car in good running order while being fully aware of any necessary repairs. If you state clearly in your ads that the car is being sold "as is," you can refer to this statement when it's time to close the deal.

Still, a trip to the prospective buyer's mechanic might turn up a new question about the car's condition. What to do?

This must be handled on a case-by-case basis. If the repair is needed, and you trust the mechanic's assessment, you could propose reducing the agreed-upon price by all, or part, of the amount for the repair. If the repair is questionable, but the buyer is insistent, split the difference, or have the car taken to your mechanic for further evaluation.

Remember, the older the car, the more a mechanic is likely to find. At some point, you have to draw the line. You may have to say to the buyer, "True, this work could be done. But the car drives well as it is. And the proposed repair isn't addressing a safety concern." After all, a used car — particularly an elderly one — isn't expected to be perfect.


Step 9: Finalize the Sale
By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
Email

Rules governing the sale of motor vehicles vary somewhat from state to state. Make sure you check with the department of motor vehicles (DMV) in your state, and keep in mind that much of the information is now available on DMV Web sites.

When selling your car, it's important to limit your liability. If someone drives away in the car you just sold, and they get into an accident, can you be held responsible? There are two ways to deal with this concern.

Once you have the money from the sale (it's customary to request either cash or a cashier's check), record the odometer reading and sign the car's title over to the buyer. In some states, the license plates go along with the car. A new title will be issued and mailed to the new owner. Additionally, in most states, a release of liability form can be downloaded from the DMV web site. Fill this out, along with the car's mileage, and mail it in as soon as the car is sold. This establishes the time at which the car left your possession.

But what if you still owe money on the car, and the bank is holding the title? One way to deal with this is to conclude the sale at the bank where the title is held. Call ahead and have the title ready. Then, once money has changed hands and the bank has been paid the balance of the loan, sign the title over to the buyer.

In some cases, however, an out-of-state bank might hold the title. In this instance, it is recommended that you go with the buyer to the DMV and get a temporary operating permit based on a bill of sale. Then, after you pay off the balance of the loan with the proceeds from the car sale, have the title mailed to the new owner. Sign it over to the new owner and the transaction is complete.

Finally, remember to contact your insurance agent to cancel your policy on the vehicle you have sold (or transfer the coverage to your new car).

Before your car drives away for the final time, take a last look through the glove compartment, the trunk and under the seats. You might find some long forgotten treasures you misplaced years ago.


Step 10: After the Sale

In most states, the condition of a used car for sale is considered "as is" and no warranty is provided or implied. Therefore, if the car breaks down after you have sold it, you are under no obligation to refund the buyer's money or pay to have it repaired. If you have sold a car to someone who took it for inspection at a garage and the mechanic found nothing wrong with it, you have done all you can to protect yourself and the buyer.

The best way to feel peace of mind after selling your used car is to make sure you did everything correctly. This means being open about the condition of the car before the sale and timely and complete in transferring DMV paperwork after the sale.

When done correctly, selling a used car can be a win-win situation. You have turned your used car into cash and provided reliable transportation for the next owner. Focus on the benefits to both parties and you are likely to have a smooth and profitable experience.

Thank you,
Thomas Ieracitano
Can't Make it Here, We'll Take it There!


want a website or an email like this ?  go to http://123BrandMe.com